Mongolsko

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Mongolsko

 

Peter Hájik

 

Sadám za stôl a priťahujem si k sebe tanier s horúcou polievkou. Strašná cesta. Prvý deň v Mongolsku je vďaka časovému posunu vždy nekonečne dlhý. Aj tento mal tridsať hodín. Som v zrube postavenom na brehu rieky Uur vzdialenom skoro dvetisíc kilometrov od Ulanbátaru. Mladá Mongolka prikladá do kachiel a ja, v polospánku vnímam vôňu živice z čerstvo nakálaného dreva. Konečne mimo civilizácie. „Píp, Píp“ – ozvalo sa z rohu zrubu. Neveriac otáčam hlavu a hľadím na rozsvietený mobil. „Preboha, to nie“ – šepnem. Žiletky očí mongolského dievčaťa sa rozžiarili blahom. Došla jej SMS.

-o-

 

Je noc, ja poskakujem v terénnom UAZe. a pri každom zdriemnutí si tresnem hlavu o bočné sklo auta. Tohto roku prichádzam do Mongolska nie ako sprievodca rybárov, ale mojou úlohou je prezrieť si kemp na rieke Uur a posúdiť, či je vhodný pre klientov mojej cestovky.

Na túto rieku sa vraciam po trinástich rokoch a som plný emócií. V hlave si premietam moju prvú, dávno zabudnutú cestu do Mongolska. Vtom čase sme sa z Ulanbátaru presúvali lietadlom AN-2, familiárne nazývaným „Andula“. Do malého dvojplošníka sa na drevené lavice natlačilo osem rybárov a jeden ufúľaný Mongol, ktorý nám chabou ruštinou povedal – „Ja mechanik“. Prvýkrát som ho zazrel pred nástupom do lietadla, keď zvedavo civel na malú kvapku visiacu pod vrtuľou na kryte motora. Zotrel ju prstom, privoňal a olizol jazykom – „ Charašo, vsjo vpariadke“. Všetkým nám podvihol sebavedomie. Nakladania našich kufrov a tubusov sa nezúčastnil, ale pri zabuchovaní dverí lietadla som si všimol jeho veľkú starostlivosť o kovové vedro. Lietadlo sa za strašného burácania motoru vznieslo a ja som vystrašený, kútikom oka pozoroval okolo sediacich rybárov. Nikoho som nepoznal. Predstavil sa mi iba mladý chalan, ktorý mi pri podaní ruky povedal –„Michal“. Lietadlo mi pripadalo ako poskladané z „ kindervajca“. Ľahký plátenný trup a trasúce sa vzpery medzi dvomi krídlami, tak toto som doteraz videl iba vo filmoch o prvej svetovej vojne. Z obdobných lietajúcich strojov piloti v kožených čapiciach ručne zhadzovali bomby do zákopov.

Triasli sme sa už tri hodiny od zimy a lietadlo sústavne padalo a stúpalo, kopírujúc vzdušné jamy. Mechanik odrazu vstal a zmizol v malinkých dverách vo chvoste lietadla. Michal zdvihol hlavu a podľa kamenného výrazu tváre a popolavých líc, mu muselo byť strašne zle. O chvíľu sa krpatý Mongol po čupiačky vytrepal z dverí, tlačiac pred sebou vedro. Vtom sme všetci zacítili čpavý zápach čerstvého moču. Určite aj Michal, lebo mu došlo strašne zle.

Po štyroch hodinách mávania krídlami, sme vcelku hladko pristáli, aby sme vzápätí zistili, že skupina rybárov, ktorých sme striedali, také šťastie nemala. Ich „Andula“ bola pokrčená ako papierový kelímok od piva. S ohnutou vrtuľou a zlomeným krídlom už dva týždne strašila v stepi. Mongolskí pastieri ju však do nášho odletu pekne kus po kuse porozoberali a poodnášali do svojich júrt trup, krídla aj drevene lavice, v mene hesla „všetko sa raz zíde“.

Tresk. Šľahol som si hlavu o predné sedadlo a prebral sa zo spomienok. Sme doma. Zruby v kempe boli pokryté čerstvo napadnutým snehom. V rozsvietených dverách vidím zababušenú siluetu, ktorá sa rozbehla k nám z roztvorenou náručou. „Ahoj Alenka“- kričím a padám do objatia. O minútu už sedíme pri čaji a ja sa dozvedám fantastickú novinu. Alenka, ktorá prišla do tábora o tri dni skôr nezaháľala a na jednej svojej rybačke urobila husársky kúsok, chytila s najväčšou pravdepodobnosťou ženský svetový rekord. Zdolala deň pred naším príchodom tajmena dlhého stotridsaťdeväť centimetrov. Hlavátka bola natoľko ťažká, že vyčerpaná rybárka po dlhom boji ju nedokázala ani poriadne vziať do rúk a zapózovať na fotografovanie. Gratuláciám nebolo konca kraja. Mongolskou nocou sa rozliehal štrngot pohárov.

Rieka Uur sa kľukatí popri tábore a prechádza okrajom hôr, naráža do strmých skál, rozlieva sa do širokých plání na okraji stepi a každým kilometrom mení svoj charakter. Neviem, čo viac by si rybári mohli želať. K dispozícii je priestranný raftovací čln, ktorým sa každý deň splavujeme po rieke a prechytávame iba tie miesta, kde tušíme veľkú rybu. Sme tu len štyria a z toho Zdenek je tu viac menej kvôli prírode a koňom ako na chytanie rýb. Po dvoch dňoch sneh, ktorý napadol v noci počas nášho príchodu, je nadobro preč. Októbrové teploty sa cez deň šplhajú v slnečnom počasí na osemnásť stupňov a v noci klesajú mierne pod nulu. Čas ako vyšitý na lov hlavátky. Zdenek, ktorému prischla prezývka Indy ( podoba s postavou Indiána Jonesa z rovnomenného filmu je evidentná), každý deň vyráža na koni túlať sa po okolí. Dve noci prespal aj v jurte u mongolských pastierov, aby nám priniesol správy, ako skutočne prebieha život v mongolskej rodine. My zatiaľ v trojici raftujeme a prechytávame asi tridsať kilometrový úsek rieky pod a nad táborom. Silná pohoda. Ráno, po výdatných teplých raňajkách celodenná rybačka a po návrate večera o troch chodoch. Z rozmaznanosti sme vyskúšali aj náš kúpeľňový domček. Neuveriteľné. Stojím pod sprchou a na hlavu mi tečie teplá voda, ktorú mongolský pomocník vyniesol pod strechu domčeka. Páková batéria funguje na princípe: 

  • dám prst pod tečúcu vodu

  • zvriesknem –„horúca!“ a Durun mongolský priateľ s úsmevom doleje studenej vody

  •  očista môže pokračovať.

Každý deň niekto z našej trojice chytí tajmena cez meter. No Alenkinu stotridsaťdevinu sa nám nepodarilo prekonať. Ja končím na čísle stojedenásť a Dušan má o päť centimetrov dlhšieho (tajmena).

Zabudnite na mýty, že Mongoli nechytajú a nejedia ryby. Tieto sú už prekonané. Jedného dňa splavujúc rieku na rafte stretáme na brehu Uuru usmiateho mongolského rybára v gumených broďákoch a slušnou udicou na vláčenie. Preto som sa ani neudivil, keď ma na ďalší deň náš mongolský sprievodca a správca kempu Prudo vyzýva na lovecký súboj, kto z nás chytí viac lenokov na prívlač. Priznám sa, že keď som po dvadsiatich minútach prehrával už 0 : 5, začal som mať obavy o prestíž slovenskej trikolóry. Nakoniec to dopadlo dobre. Po dvoch hodinách sústavného nahadzovania sme už museli končiť, lebo sme sa prevláčili až k nášmu autu, ktoré nás čakalo na odvoz do tábora. Súťaž sme ukončili výsledkom 16 : 11 a tento krát slovenský Jánošík vytrel kocúra mongolskému pastierovi. No napriek tomu musím „smekať“ pred mongolskou rybárskou zručnosťou a bojím sa použiť slovo- školou. Dávno sú už preč časy, keď ma niekoľko hodín krútiac hlavou sledoval Mongol na koni ako chytám a púšťam ryby konkrétne na tejto rieke. Nakoniec prišiel ku mne, vytiahol z rukáva kus mongolského syra, tvrdého ako skala podal mi ho a odcválal.

Na jeseň voda Uuru klesá a je neskutočne krištáľovo čistá. Potichu sa šinieme v raftovacom člne cez hlbokú jamu a vtedy som ho zbadal. Cez polarizačné okuliare zíram na pomaly plávajúceho tajmena dve metre odo mňa. Je to najväčšia hlavátka, akú som kedy videl. Z Alenkou jej odhadujeme cez stopäťdesiat centimetrov. V túto jeseň sa podľa neoverených správ vraj podarila chytiť rakúskemu rybárovi, fotografovi tu na Uure hlavátka dlhá stopäťdesiat päť centimetrov. Začínam tomu veriť.

Jeden slnečný deň naša štvorica zasvätila celé popoludnie mongolskému spoločenskému životu. Na zaklade pozvania sme navštívili, asi tridsať kilometrov vzdialené mestečko (našinec by to nazval dedinou), vďaka ktorému máme v našom tábore z času na čas prebleskujúci signál na mobile. Prezreli sme si miestnu školu a nazreli sme i do triedy počas vyučovania. Tri hodiny sme boli účastí mongolských zápasov detí aj dospelých v školskej telocvični. Stretla sa tam celá dedina, pardon mestečko a ja som pocítil takú silu spolupatričnosti miestnych obyvateľov, aká bola na našej dedine pred päťdesiatimi rokmi, v čase majálesov, alebo na driapačkách peria.

Moja misia splnila svoj účel. Tábor so svojím servisom a aj rieka s rybím bohatstvom sú ideálne na uskutočnenie rybárskej dovolenky aj pre najnáročnejších klientov.

Berte to ako pozvanie.

P.S.

Nedbajúc na upozornenia mojich mongolských priateľov pri ceste domov som úplne sám navštívil najväčší ulambátarský bazár, hoc som vedel, že nepatrí medzi najbezpečnejšie obchodné centrá. A aj tak bolo. Pri nasadaní do auta som zistil, že mám goretexové nohavice rozrezané na stehnách a zo zazipsovaných vrecák mi ukradli päťdesiat dolárov odložených na vyplatenie šoféra za jeho služby. Po chvíli moja ukrutná zlosť prešla do nemiestneho obdivu nad šikovnosťou zlodejov. Nemal som byť hlúpy a  peniaze mám nosiť na krku v kapsičke.

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