Lososy v Nórsku 3

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Lososy v Nórsku

3.časť

Autor Ing. Peter Hájik

Písať o Nórsku v rybárskom časopise znamená, že podvedomie rybára očakáva článok o love tresiek vo fjordoch. Tí, ktorí v Nórsku ešte neboli, majú na základe rôznych informácií zafixované, že takáto rybačka prebieha ako vyťahovanie ryby za rybou a všetko sú to statné kusy. Tí, ktorí už v Nórsku boli, nie sú zvedaví na bežné úlovky, ale zaujíma ich iba opis zdolávania veľkých rýb, nové rybolovné techniky na mori a samozrejme fotky rekordných úlovkov. Čaká ma ťažká úloha.

Po troch hodinách od rozlúčky s riekou Malselv prichádzame na pobrežie Kafjordu, do dedinky Manndalen. Ubytovanie je v typicky nórskych chatkách. Strechy pokryté trávou, zariadenie plne postačujúce pre život rybárov a ako bonus, súčasťou kúpeľne je sauna. Fajčiari zas oceňujú spojenie kuchyne s terasou, ktorá je priamo nad morom. Jedno mi však nejde do hlavy. Navštívil som už veľa kempov a spal v skromných domčekoch, ale i v luxusných apartmánoch. Vždy som sa však stretol s nedostatkom skríň na odkladanie odevov a osobných vecí. Pravdu povediac, neboli tu žiadne skrine. Šatstvo a rybársky neporiadok bol všade. Moje veci v Mirovom teritóriu, Mirove u Joža v kufri a Jožo ich mal od kuchyne až po saunu. To mi pripomína jeden príbeh. Pred rokmi sme na rybačku do Španielska vliekli nielen motor na čln, ale aj olej do benzínu. Odkladacieho priestoru na hausbote je oveľa viac, ako v chatkách v Nórsku, tak niet divu, že po troch dňoch, keď sme potrebovali motorový olej, museli sme prevrátiť loď hore nohami. Bezvýsledne. Začali sme podozrievať priateľov na vedľajšej lodi, že nám ho zámerne ukryli. Našli sme ho posledný deň pri likvidácii potravín - v chladničke.

Vybalenie vecí bolo rýchle. Púzdro s udicami do kúta,  kufor vedľa postele a už letíme prevziať si loď. Štyridsať koňový motor, elektrický štartér, sonar, jednoducho výbava člnu ma plne uspokojuje. Najúspešnejšie loviská sú zakreslené na morskej mape, ale pred tým, než vyrazíme na vodu, poprosím všetkých aby si do mobilov uložili telefónne číslo majiteľa kempu, ktorý nás uisťuje, že je nonstop k zastihnutiu. Telefón na mori je dôležitý, hoc nie je vždy samospasiteľný.

Nedá mi to, aby som na tomto mieste nespomenul jednu príhodu. Príbeh sa odohral na ďalekom severe Nórska. Vracajúca sa loď s nemeckými rybármi ohlasuje, že na konci fjordu, kde už začína otvorené more, nachytali nádherné tresky. To bol neodolateľný podnet pre trojicu rybárov. Dvaja z priateľov ostávajú na chate a oni okamžite vyrážajú na vodu. Vyplávali z fjordu na more iba do takej vzdialenosti, aby stále videli domčeky na konci útesu. Rybačka bola skutočne úžasná. Každý z chlapov už chytil tresku cez meter a zábery neustávali. Bolo bezvetrie, hladina tichá, nálada výborná a úsmevy široké až do tej chvíle, kým jeden z nich nepozrie smerom k pobrežiu. Domčeky nevidno. Nikto z nich si nepamätal tú chvíľu, kedy padla hmla. Rýchla porada a tri rôzne názory nato, ktorým bokom bola loď otočená k pobrežiu. Po dohode čln vyráža vytýčeným smerom. Po niekoľkých hodinách plavby je všetkým jasné, že smer neurčili správne. Ďalšia porada. Šetriť naftou? Loď mala stacionárny motor a štyristo litrovú nádrž. Rozhodli sa pokračovať. Ďalšie hodiny jazdy. Keď sa začala hmla dvíhať, zistili, že všade na okolo je more. Zo zaťatými zubami rozhodli, že naspäť cesta nemožná, napred sa isť musí. Jediný mobilný telefón, ktorý bol v člne, vypovedal poslušnosť. Zavolať, alebo poslať priateľom správu o ich situácii sa nedarilo. Hlad a smäd zaháňa do ústrania tieseň a pochybnosť o správnosti rozhodnutia plávať ďalej. Svetlá na obryse pobrežia prinášajú úľavu. V diaľke zbadajú loď nórskeho rybára. Poprosili ho, aby im ukázal na ich mape polohu, kde sa nachádzajú. Trvalo mu dlho, kým sa zorientoval. Nakoniec vysvitlo, že sa vzdialili od svojej základne viac, ako sto kilometrov! Celý príbeh končí šťastne. Od radosti začal fungovať aj mobil a tak dali na známosť svojim priateľom, že sú na žive a pátraciu akciu, ktorú už začali rozbiehať, môžuodvolať. Domov sa vrátili po dvadsiatich piatich hodinách.

Polárny deň má svoje čaro. Svetlo po polnoci v nás prebúdza zvyšky síl a túžba chytať ryby je väčšia ako únava z cesty. „Nazdar hoši, vítejte!“- prihovára sa k nám pán z vedľajšej chatky. „Pojte se podívat.“- kývne na nás. V rukách drží veľké igelitové vrece a vyťahuje z neho gebuľu obrovskej tresky. Nasleduje scéna ako z gréckej mytológie. Český Perzeus drží pred našimi zrakmi hlavu megaryby a my sme skameneli ako pri pohľade na hlavu medúzy. „Metr třicet a jistě cez dvacet kilo“ – podotkol náš sused a skromne odchádza. Cez rameno počujem vysvetlenie od Reinara, majitela kempu- „Minulý týždeň bol záliv plný veľkých tresiek a toto je úlovok zo včera.“

Sedíme v lodi a naťahujeme pilkre hore-dolu, hore-dolu. Peter z Vladom vo vedľajšej lodi získavajú prvé skúsenosti z morským rybolovom. Úlovkami sú prvé tresky jednoškvrnné, tmavé a obecné. Veľkosť rýb nepresahuje sedemdesiat centimetrov. Únava sa začína prejavovať a po troch hodinách s rybačkou končíme. Hlavy nám už pomaly klesajú a oči sa zatvárajú. Bol to náročný deň. Trval krásnych dvadsaťšesť hodín.

Priamo v kempingu do mora ústí rieka s rovnakým názvom ako dedina – Manndalen. Malá lososia rieka vyteká z jazera ďaleko v horách, ktoré je podľa Reinara plné sivoňov, ale bez prístupu autom. Chalani si zakúpili povolenky na túto riečku a po prvej vychádzke skonštatovali, že táto nádherná rieka je prakticky bez rýb. A tak sa i naši ortodoxní muškári rozhodli pre lov na mori. Za päť dní morskej rybačky sa podarilo prechytať všetky odporúčané miesta zakreslené v morskej mape. Už sme vedeli hľadať tresky tmavé, vedeli sme kde je šanca na ulovenie veľkej tresky obecnej a kde sa nachádzajú miene a lumby. Prvú tresku cez meter chytil Marek a za ním v ten istý deň i Marian. Marian, ktorý upísal dušu muškáreniu a k morskému rybolovu ešte len pričuchol, tak ten sa krčí v lodi z požičaným morským prútom zakliesneným medzi nohami a ťahá niečo z vody. Udica, ktorá je hrubšia od muškárky je pre neho „roxor“ . Krátky päťsto gramový prút má ohnutý ako luk a jeho stotridsať kilogramov živej váhy nedáva treske veľkú šancu. Opäť chytil ten, čo si najmenej zaslúžil, ktorý ešte ráno hovoril, že more je o ničom, len chytanie na tečucej rieke je zaujímavé, tak ten sa teraz škerí do očí pätnásťkilovej treske.

Ryby sme nefiletovali ani nemrazili. Na chatu sme brali iba toľko, koľko sme dokázali skonzumovať. Valná väčšina rýb dostávala slobodu. Ryby sme varili, piekli, smažili a robili šaláty. Všetci mali možnosť ohúriť svojím kuchárskym umením. Niektorí jedinci hltali ryby ako tulene v manéži. Darmo, čerstvá morská ryba je niečo iné ako mrazené heiky zo supermarketov.

V posledný deň, pár hodín pred odchodom, si Mário v prestávke medzi jedením a balením, odskočil zavláčiť na mólo, ktoré bolo na konci našej chatovej osady. Tu presne ústila rieka Manndalen do mora. O chvíľu pribehol celý roztrasený s vlajúcim silonom na konci udice. Nástrahu mu vraj utrhol buď pstruh morský alebo losos. Žeby predsa?! Nebolo viac treba, veď balenie počká a už letíme k ústiu. Nahadzujeme rôzne nástrahy. Na hladinu dopadol vober, plandavka, ale aj veľký lososí strimer. Čuduj sa svete! O chvíľu opäť zasekáva Mário. Strieborné telo sa mihlo pod hladinou a nasleduje prudký únik. Je to metrový losos. Ryba mení smer a namieri si to pod mólo, ktoré stojí na drevených pilotoch. Nasleduje tiché puk a ja som presvedčený, že i keď nám tohto roku veľký losos nebol súdený, že v budúcom roku im to nedarujeme. Len tak mimochodom. Za pár minút vláčenia som na malého vobera Lovec-rapy chytil dvoch platísov, na rotačku sa chytila treska čierna a na strimer dve malé tresky obecné.

Naše putovanie za lososmi v Nórsku sa končí. Prežili sme desať super dní v nórskej prírode a dávam za pravdu všetkým tým, ktorí tvrdia, že losos je kráľovská ryba a bude nám cťou sa o priazeň jeho eminencie snažiť znova o rok.

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